Recommended Hand Tool List for the Apprentice Electrician

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By wilderness

Quality and the electricians hand tools

While it is recognized that anyone just becoming an electrician most likely has a severely limited budget, the set of electricians hand tools is not the place to cut cost by buying cheap tools.  Such tools will not last and are much more difficult to use - a simple rubber handle on a screwdriver can make a large difference after using it all day.  Make sure that high quality tools fill the new electricians tool bag.

There are often many brands available for the same basic tool, with many different prices, and brands will be recommended as well as the actual tool where applicable.  Klein Tools makes high quality electrician tools, as does Knipex, Ideal and Greenlee.  Professional power tools are offered by Milwaukee, Dewalt and Bosch.  Again, use only high quality tools for everyday use.

Important Safety Tools for Electricians

Using a tick tester, or non contact voltage detector.  Find hot wires before cutting or stripping them.
See all 2 photos
Using a tick tester, or non contact voltage detector. Find hot wires before cutting or stripping them.
Source: Wilderness
Voltmeter in use - know what voltage you will be dealing with, and if it is hot.
Voltmeter in use - know what voltage you will be dealing with, and if it is hot.
Source: Wilderness

Tool belts from Amazon

Klein 5709XL PowerLine Extra Large Combo Set, 4-Piece
Amazon Price: $81.99
List Price: $150.92
Klein 5710M 4-Piece Electrician's Combo Set
Amazon Price: $114.62
List Price: $181.10
Klein 5413 Soft Leather Work Belt Suspenders
Amazon Price: $41.89
List Price: $67.08

The electrician tool belt and bag

First on the list might be an electrician tool belt. There are many styles of tool belt available, and most are aimed at the different trades expected to use them. An electricians tool belt will need several pockets on one side for small parts and supplies with pockets on the other side for hand tools. It should have a place to hang electrical tape and a hammer loop.

Too many pockets, however, can be a hindrance. A tool belt gains weight as tools and parts are added - it can quickly become quite a job to wear it all day. Many electricians use a tool belt with only a couple of pockets for parts, though 3 or 4 is handy as parts don't get mixed up. Several pockets will be needed for hand tools, with loops on both the inside and outside for pliers. For specialty work such as installing large numbers of switches or plugs a small sheath for just a screwdriver and a pair of pliers can be very handy as it eliminates most of the weight when the electrician knows they will need only a few hand tools for the day.

Consider a set of suspenders for the belt as they distribute the not inconsiderable weight to the shoulders and make carrying the belt an easier job. They are spendy, however, and can wait if necessary. Electrician tool belts are commonly made of either leather or nylon; it seems a matter of personal taste which one to use. Do make sure, however, that the belt buckle is adjustable and long enough to accommodate winter clothing. The tool belt should be constructed with heavy duty stitching and rivets, but should last for years.  An electricians tool belt should be available at your local home improvement store such as Home Depot, but if not they are widely available online, including at Amazon.

A tool bag is also quite desirable as tools are usually transported into the job site each morning and removed in the evening. Theft of tools is quite common at job sites during night hours and most electricians won't risk losing their precious hand tools. The electricians tool bag is one place, however, where some money can be saved; many use nothing more than a 5 gallon bucket. A nylon tool bag often has pockets both inside and outside for smaller tools, but a simple bucket can work well in the beginning.

Pliers - primary electrician tools

There are dozens of different styles of pliers available and the well equipped electricians tool bag will contain several of them.

Needle nose pliers

A good set of needle nose pliers is indispensable for the electrician. Klein and Knipex both make a very good set with built in wire cutters and even a stripping hole for #12 wire, both of which are handy options. Enough so that needle nose pliers for the electrician should always have the wire cutter option. The Knipex set also includes crimpers for ferrules.

Lineman's pliers

A good heavy set of lineman's pliers will often be needed. Again, Klein makes a very good set with an optional fish tape pulling arrangement on the side of them. A very handy option for the electrician, and the arrangement on the side is far preferable to the same type of option where the fish tape fits between the handles - it is far too easy to receive a very nasty pinch with that style.

Side cutting pliers (dikes)

Side cutting pliers, or "dikes" are common to every electricians tool set. These are used to not only cut wire, but nails, staples, MC cable and other items. Make sure that the jaws are specially hardened for such use, not merely intended for cutting copper or aluminum wire. Klein makes two different sets; one with red handles and a set with blue handles and hardened jaws. Knipex also makes a good set of side cutting pliers. These pliers should be in the 8" - 10" length.

Slip joint pliers

Commonly called channellock pliers (a trade name) a 8" or 10" pair of slip joint pliers will be required. Recommended here are the Knipex Cobra 10" pliers, or even the three piece set of 7, 10 and 12" lengths.

Wire strippers

Although not truly pliers, a pair of wire strippers are a necessary item in the electricians tool belt. Although wire strippers are available for Romex wire, far more common are simple strippers for #10 and smaller solid (not stranded) wire. Ability to strip #8 and #6 wire is a plus where available. Recommended are either Ideal or Klein strippers; Ideal is usually a little cheaper, Klein is more comfortable to use. Don't buy the automatic style; just a simple pair of wire strippers for several sizes of solid wire.  GB offers a set of wire strippers with a built in voltage tester, but cost considerably more.  As wire strippers are considered a "throw away" tool (they simply wear out frequently) the extra cost really isn't worth it.



Knipex pliers from Amazon

Knipex 8701250 10-Inch Cobra Pliers
Amazon Price: $27.16
List Price: $42.13
Knipex 1301614 6-1/4-Inch 4-In-1 Electricians' Pliers for Strips 10/12/14 AWG
Amazon Price: $29.85
List Price: $46.18
Knipex 7401250SBA 10-Inch High Leverage Diagonal Cutters
Amazon Price: $42.99
List Price: $51.37
Knipex 0902240SBA 9-Inch High Leverage Linemans NE Style, Comfort Grip
Amazon Price: $42.99
List Price: $60.63

Klein drivers from Amazon

Klein 85191 7-1/2-Inch Conduit-Fitting and Reaming Screwdriver
Amazon Price: $23.19
List Price: $37.14
Klein JSDS02 7-Piece Journeyman Screwdriver Set
Amazon Price: $33.99
List Price: $99.98
Klein 631 7-Piece Cushion-Grip Nut-Driver Set 3-Inch Shanks
Amazon Price: $39.99
List Price: $61.68

Klein allen wrenches from Amazon

Klein 70579 5-1/4-Inch Folding Hex-Key Set with 5-Inch Sizes
Amazon Price: $8.15
List Price: $13.16
Klein 70574 9 Inch Sizes Grip-It Hex-Set
Amazon Price: $4.00
List Price: $8.52

Drivers in the electrician hand tools

Included in this section are screwdrivers, nut drivers and similar tightening tools for the electrician.

Screwdrivers

A top quality set of screwdrivers will be in every electricians tool bag. Included needs to be a cabinet tip flat blade, a larger flat blade, a #2 phillips, a #1 phillips and a #2 square tip. Klein is recommended, but Ideal also makes an acceptable screwdriver set.

Nut Drivers

A good set of nut drivers, from 1/4" to at least 7/16". Klein is again recommended, in the middle shaft length. The Klein set with long hollow shafts is useful in some circumstances but not worth the extra trouble of carrying the long handles in the electricians tool belt.

Allen Wrenches (hex keys)

Allen wrenches are a must. Electricians typically prefer sets of allen wrenches such as made by Klein - both large and small sets are used, both in SAE sizes. Very occasionally it would be nice to have individual allen wrenches, but it again is not worth the extra trouble and cost and individual wrenches are often forgotten and lost.

Socket set

A socket set is used by all but strictly residential electricians, and sometimes there as well. Deep sockets are more valuable than shallow, and both 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets are useful. These are not high use items, nor are they used to tighten to extremes. A Craftsman set or equivalent is recommended here, but be sure it has a good selection of deep sockets.

Adjustable wrench

A couple of adjustable wrenches, of perhaps 8" and 10" length will be found in the electricians tool set. Again, absolutely top quality is not needed as they are used for light duty only; such brands as Craftsman are quite adequate.

Pipe wrench

There are times when a pipe wrench is invaluable; Ridgid makes a good pipe wrench in about the 10" size that will work well. A second wrench of the same size is advisable for working with rigid conduit.

Conduit Reamer

Although not strictly a screwdriver, a conduit reaming tool is necessary for any electrician running conduit. Klein is recommended with their dedicated tool. Reamers are available for square shank screwdrivers but do not work nearly as well as the long screwdriver blade prevents the reamer tool from entering a conduit with a bend near the end of the conduit.



Electrical meters and testers

There are several meters and testers that need to be included in every electricians tool bag.

Multimeter

A multimeter capable of reading up to 600 volts is necessary. It should also be able to detect continuity. A clamp on style of multimeter with amperage capability is preferable. Fluke is the preferred brand, although cheaper brands are available and will be adequate for the apprentice who is just becoming an electrician.

Tick tester (non contact voltage detector)

Every electrician should be equipped with a non contact, or tick tester and many have a spare tester in the truck as well as one in their pocket. Testers that use ordinary AAA batteries are preferable. Fluke again makes a good tester.

Plug tester

A plug tester with a built-in GFI tester is necessary and fairly inexpensive. Nearly any brand will work just fine here.

Specialized voltage tester

These are simple testers that will test for the presence of various specific voltages as well as continuity. They make an excellent replacement for a true multimeter and most electricians will have one in their tool bag whether they have a multimeter or not.

Fluke meters from Amazon

Fluke 1AC-A1-II Volt-Alert AC Non-Contact Voltage Tester
Amazon Price: $17.00
List Price: $50.16
Fluke T+PRO Electrical Tester
Amazon Price: $75.21
List Price: $88.95
Fluke Corporation 322  AC Clamp Meter
Amazon Price: $88.99
List Price: $113.95

plug testers from Amazon

Sperry GFI6302 GFCI Outlet Tester
Amazon Price: $6.95
List Price: $10.89
Sonin 50905 GFI Receptacle Tester
Amazon Price: $10.01
List Price: $0.00

Drill kit

A good cordless drill kit is a necessity. As cordless tools have increased in popularity the sawzall has become almost a requirement for an electrician although an ordinary hacksaw will suffice.

Recommended in drill kits are either the Milwaukee or Dewalt drill and sawzall kits. If possible, a kit with a flashlight should be purchased and all need to operate on no less than 18V batteries. Any set purchased must contain at least 2 batteries and three are very handy. A one battery charger is sufficient for most people although dual battery chargers are available.

The new Lithium batteries are a major plus and are far superior to the older nicad batteries if funds are available. Purchased separately they are quite spendy and require a special charger so they should be purchased with the kit if at all possible.

Avoid cheaper brands if possible as their lifespan is limited and batteries are generally cheaper and the charge doesn't last as long. Cheaper kits such as Ryobi and Makita are a viable option given these limitations but the new electrician needs to realize that they will need replacement in only a year or so.

The newer cordless impact drivers are a very very nice addition to the tool bag and again should be considered if funding is available. If possible the drill itself should be a hammer drill as the electrician is often required to drill masonry and/or concrete.

Hand benders from Amazon

Ridgid 35220 Thin-Wall Conduit Bender
Amazon Price: $52.29
List Price: $67.03
Ugly's Conduit Bending
Amazon Price: $10.59
List Price: $21.95
David's Garden Tool Greenhouse Conduit Bender for High Tunnel Quick Hoops 12 Foot Bend
Amazon Price: $111.95

Torpedo levels from Amazon

Checkpoint G3 Ultra Mag Torpedo Level. Color- Black (Only One)
Amazon Price: $32.99
List Price: $37.99
CheckPoint 0327PL 880 G3 Torpedo Laser Level, Platinum
Amazon Price: $69.95

Tape Measures from Amazon

Stanley 33-725 25-Foot FatMax Tape Measure
Amazon Price: $16.00
List Price: $29.99
Stanley FatMax 33-740 40-Foot Tape Rule with BladeArmor Coating
Amazon Price: $25.85
List Price: $34.99
Stanley 67-082 4-Piece FatMax Screwdriver Set
Amazon Price: $21.00
List Price: $24.99
Stanley 33-716 16-Foot-by-1-1/4-Inch FatMax Tape Rule with Blade Armor
Amazon Price: $12.95
List Price: $30.00

Other hand tools for the electrician.

Conduit Benders

If the electrician is expecting to do work in the commercial or industrial field they will need conduit benders in ½" and ¾" sizes and perhaps 1" as well. These are not common tools found in every household and may take some time to learn to bend conduit properly, but it is time well spent.

Level

A good torpedo level is an absolute necessity; don't fall for the cheapest price that is available out there. Strong earth magnets to hold the level to conduit or other surfaces will prevent dropping and replacing the level. A plastic case will loosen over time and result in poor readings - make sure your level has a metal case. A level with a 30º vial can be very useful to the electrician; consider paying a few more dollars for on with that feature. Checkpoint brand is recommended.

Measuring tape

A good quality measuring tape in either a 25' or 30' length is mandatory. Get a tape measure of at least 1" width - less width means less strength and that means the tape will not extend as far out without bending (standout length). Stanley makes a very good tape measure with their "fat max" series and is recommended.

There is a whole host of tools that are useful to the electrician, but these are the primary tools every electrician needs. Some suggestions for the future might include a tubing cutter of the type plumbers use as it is useful for removing conduit from around wire without harming the wire. Ratcheting cable cutters are nice but very spendy (nearly as much as the required drill kit). More and more work is being done with MC cable and cutters and strippers for it are useful as well. A cheap calculator is nice, but most cell phones now have enough capability for most electricians. Additions to the cordless drill package such as a circular saw or a peanut grinder can be handy but can be added later and is of only limited use in any case. Most electricians will eventually own a 100' roll type measuring tape.

The list can and will go on and on. You will need pencils and sharpies (indelible markers) and some kind of knife (razor knife, box cutter or large pocket knife) and other common household items. As you progress towards the journeyman more exotic tools will be needed and unfortunately often more expensive ones. The tools listed above should start the apprentice just becoming an electrician down the road they need to follow with a well stocked electrician set of hand tools.

Other hubs for Electricians

Comments

Denise Handlon profile image

Denise Handlon Level 8 Commenter 21 months ago

Wow, this could have earned you a hubnugget award (did it?) Very cool. You've been a member here for about as long as I have...nice meeting up with you. :)

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 21 months ago

Unfortunately no award, but thanks for the comment. Yes, about the same time on HP - I hope you're enjoying it as much as I am.

SteveoMc profile image

SteveoMc 21 months ago

Great information, I am pretty much a handiman and I was very interested in the tools...I love them and have most of the ones you talked about. Would even like a little more information about how to use some of them. Great JOB!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 21 months ago

Thank you for the compliment. If you are interested I have written several hubs on the use of hand benders, as well as one on the non-contact voltage tester.

Dan - Gold Coast Electrician 20 months ago

Great review of the tools needed. Nice work!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 20 months ago

It's always a question for the apprentice - just what to buy and what is necessary vs what is nice to have. Thanks for the comment.

daniel 9 months ago

Wilderness are you familiar with the Milwaukee M 12compact line? Is 12 volts enough?

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 9 months ago

I am not familiar with that model. I would have to say, however, that 12V just isn't going to be enough. Even if the drill is designed to produce enough high torque at low speed to drill large holes the battery simply won't last at that low a voltage.

I commonly drill 1"+ holes in both wood and steel with my cordless set, and a 12V unit just isn't going to be able to do that with any consistency. Even if it could drill that size hole through a 2X4 or a panel can it won't drill very many and the drill probably won't last long either.

On the other hand, it would probably do fine if all you are doing is driving screws. An impact driver with 18V will drive many, many screws before needing charged and it doesn't overwork the driver at all even with large screws into 2" lumber - I don't see why a lower voltage wouldn't work nearly as well.

If this is what you're doing, check out impact drivers. I've just added a link in the drill section of this hub to a hub on impact drivers - you might check it out. You can buy smaller drill bits to drill wood that will fit into the driver, and I have used a spade bit up to around an inch with an impact driver, but wouldn't want to do it on a frequent basis.

Daniel 8 months ago

Thanks for the feedback.Im in technical school now. In 9months I will graduate with a degree in electrical maintenance and construction technology. The way I see it I have two possible paths. Construction / Installation and manufacturing maintenance. What direction would you recommend?

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

I'm assuming your degree will put you in the field with tools in your hands and not behind a desk designing either a construction job or maintenance program.

Given that, construction will put you all over the place and maybe all over the country. Every few months you will have a new job to work on with much different challenges. You may well be unemployed part of the time while between jobs.

Maintenance, even at a large facility, will soon become the same thing day after day. You will be more stable in both employment and location (I spent 20 years doing most of the electrical maintenance, among other things, at one location). Pay per hour is probably better in construction, but maintenance probably won't see the common layoffs.

They are two very different fields, with very different pros and cons. Either one can offer advancement into supervisory and/or management. Both have there individual challenges.

If you have a family the maintenance may well be better because it is more stable, but the pay probably isn't as good. It's a tough choice. I've found I like construction far better, but being laid off periodically hurts.

Daniel 8 months ago

Thats pretty much in line with what i have been thinking. Thanks again for the dialogue. I do have a family and was already leaning towards manufacturing maintenance. What kind of tools do you believe to be vital for someone starting in that field?

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

In my (very) limited in industrial maintenance the company has provided virtually all the tools. I would suggest saving up for when you graduate and get a job so that you can, if necessary, purchase the tools you will need. It could vary considerably from company to company as the actual maintenance could be very different. One might include installing a good deal of new equipment with all new conduit and wire while the next could be full of high tech electronics and require a laptop as a primary instrument.

Just one additional thought on the field; if you are interested in one day owning your own company it will be very unlikely in the maintenance field. Construction and installation could well turn into a private business one day. Highly risky (most small businesses fail) but it can be highly rewarding as well.

Good luck!

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 6 months ago

I used to do that job. I pretty much hated it.

My brother and I ...are the only males in the Shaw family that aren't electricians - half the in laws are electricians as well.

My Dad....likes nothing better than drilling holes and pulling wire in a home being built. I can't figure out why I dislike electrical work so much...when I actually enjoy running hvac service calls.

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 6 months ago

Really? I typically enjoy the work. I don't, however, wire homes - all of my work is either commercial or industrial and it is a lot more varied and interesting than residential work. Always something new and different, whereas when you've done one home you've pretty much done them all.

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 6 months ago

Yeah - that's my thoughts on wiring homes, hanging lights, and slinging plugs and switches - it's sort of mindless busy work that gets you some exercise in.

Of course my dad and his two brothers and brother in law (and then - all of their sons except me and my brother) - are pretty much all with Master's licenses.

It pissed my Dad off the way they'd changed the laws here in Texas - making it easier to get that Master's license.

I like electrical troubleshooting in residential air conditioning - I'm not so talented at it that I can do much more than light commercial. I really like that stuff because you are constantly moving - and can wind up going to five to ten different service calls on a good day.

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 6 months ago

While I can enjoy the challenge of a service call (usually something has gone wrong somewhere and it's often not electrical at all), not in residential. I'm not much of a rafter rat and don't enjoy crawling around the crawl spaces through rats, snakes and spiders, either.

No, give me a nice clean, warm commercial job. I'll put up with the craziness of customers. I once had a woman and her little girl sit down to rest on the lift I was working from 20 feet over her head (she jumped up pretty quick when the lift moved a couple of inches!) but it's better than the snakes.

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 6 months ago

You've sort of reminded me here about a hub I intend to write. I wrote one about "the worst service call that I ever went on." - well, I've got another installment for that.

I've been disappointed with most of my hvac hubs - I've about determined that folks aren't too interested in reading about that stuff - I think most just hit the phone book, or call the people that they already know when there is a problem!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 6 months ago

You may be right about HVAC hubs. I will work on my heat pump up to the point that I have to deal with Freon. I just don't have the knowledge or tools for that, and I doubt that many do.

I'm a little more fortunate in that everyone has a screwdriver and can change a light switch or something with just a little help, and I can provide that.

Daniel 5 months ago

Hey . I see alot of insulated tool sets. They are expensive. What is the need ?

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 5 months ago

First, be aware that there is a difference between having a rubber-cushioned handle and being insulated. Most of the rubber coated handles are not listed by the manufacturer as insulated against high voltage - the rubber is for comfort only, and is well worth the extra cost. It also gives extra grip - screwdrivers can be turned much harder with a rubber handle than a plastic one for instance.

True insulated tools are quite a bit more expensive and seldom necessary. My own tool kit has all rubber handles, but zero insulated ones. The rubber, or even a plastic handle, will insulate from electric voltages well enough in the voltage range I deal with, which is typically up to 480 volts.

Work with screwdrivers, pliers or wire strippers all day long, though, and that comfort provided by the rubber handle quickly becomes worth twice what it cost.

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 5 months ago

If you ever had gauges and the gas...and something to measure temperature with that is faster than an old fashioned thermometer - I could walk you through charging your heat pump.

It gets profoundly more difficult though, when someone is trying to charge one in heating mode - that's hard to get done.

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 5 months ago

I'm sure you could - I've watched and it just isn't that complex a job. It does, however, require specialized tools and equipment that don't have a lot of use elsewhere - it isn't reasonable to buy these things for just one job.

As you say, a pyrometer of some kind, gauges and gas to start with. If you need to re-fill, there is probably a leak that needs fixed and now don't you need an evacuation system to be legal? Cheaper to just call a serviceman for this kind of thing.

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 5 months ago

You only ever need a recovery machine if there is gas in a system, and you're replacing either the compressor, filter, or planning to REPAIR a leak - then you need to use a vacuum pump to not only remove the oxygen or atmospheric "air" from the system....but holding the vacuum or negative pressure is a second or third confirmation that a leak is actually fixed.

The thing is....most a/c or heat pump refrigerant leaks occur in the very freaking thin copper tubing of the indoor coil - and nobody....is going to repair those leaks, as they are often microscopic...or exceedingly difficult to find.

Also.....were someone to take the time to repair an indoor coil refrigerant leak - that in and of itself is not a profitable thing for the tech or contractor - but it's not going to be cost effective for you either.

Then...the nature of those kinds of leaks, formed from vibration and rust...pretty much determine that another one will soon follow - and so it's never ending misery for all persons involved to even mess with that.

Much better to have a leak develop at the condenser!!!!

Or to simply pay someone to charge the thing....until the leak becomes big enough that it's more cost effective for you to just replace either the indoor coil, the whole air handler/furnace - or to bite a bullet and get a new system.

It's a bad deal for everyone, Sir, and some of the manufacturers in the US have slipped on quality to very bad levels of late - and the whole situation ...mostly just makes your contractor look bad, even should it be the poor equipment that he'd had the confidence in to sell you.

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 5 months ago

Don't get me started on manufacturer defects; it is a rare school or store that we build that doesn't have at least 10% of the new light fixtures defective in one way or another. Wired wrong, defective ballasts, broken or missing parts; it's always something.

It's why I recommend only top quality tools for tradesmen - you can generally trust them and many carry a lifetime guarantee.

Wesman Todd Shaw profile image

Wesman Todd Shaw 5 months ago

I'd worked for years for a contractor who'd decided to sell Nordyne equipment...Westinghouse, Tappan, and their other brands.

The guy...the contractor that I worked for...was the SINGLE most HONEST and ...truly, one of the most mechanically inclined individuals that I'd ever met anywhere.

The systems that he'd sold...were poor to awful from the factory, and though he was in a position to where he could retire at any time...that shit equipment cost him some "face" or reputation.

So he stopped selling Nordyne...and started selling Rheem. Now...Rheem is GOOD equipment by and large - it's the equal of Trane, Lennox, or Carrier/Bryant...at least it is in my personal experience.

But there was one customer that had bout an expensive 14 SEER system...and after MANY hours of warranty work in which I'd looked over every single last possible thing that someone usually thinks of....I found..about three or four..can't recall - TINY leaks on the larger of the two copper lines inside the condenser.

Those super small refrigerant leaks were so tiny that no refrigerant oil could be seen, and they were so small that the brand new $300 dollar digital leak detector - an instrument able to detect 1/4 pound refrigerant leak per year...ostensibly...didn't sniff them. It could only "find" them within six to eight inches of space that had copper tubing going everywhere.

I wound up finding the leaks from pressurizing the system past running capacity...with my hands from touch.

That shit shouldn't have ever passed quality control...but it did, and it was an above minimum standards condenser from one of the best manufacturers.

Negative story...but all true

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 5 months ago

Oh I can believe it! In our case by the time we find the defective fixtures it is to the point that they have to be installed NOW. Which means we have to fix them at our expense. We'll get ballasts for free, but all labor and small parts are ours to cover.

Manufacturers know we can't wait - given that, why try for a high rate of "perfects"? It doesn't cost them anything to put out crappy work - engineers and architects choose the fixture based on appearance and price, and we fix them for free.

aman 5 weeks ago

hi , am student in electrical technology and am doing a project on linemans stc. i am trying to finf out the correct tools and there usagae for a lineworker in his ever day usage in pole work.

can any1 have a say on this thanks.

aman

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 5 weeks ago

aman, I'm afraid you've come to the wrong place. An electrician and a lineman carry very different tools for very different purposes and I know next to nothing about a lineman's tool set. Sorry.

Niall 9 days ago

Thank you very much for this! I am in high school and will be starting a CO-OP program next year to become an electrician. I already have many of the basic tools (most aren't that great though) plus a drill/impact and clamp meter, but this definitely helped! Looks like I'll be in for some tool shopping, one of my faourite activities!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 days ago

Niall, you make me jealous, going tool shopping for more than just one or two items. It's been a long time since I did that.

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