Sliding Glass Patio Door - How To Repair Or Replace Rollers

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By wilderness

When to Repair Sliding Glass Door Rollers

Eventually every sliding glass, or patio, door will need help. They get harder and harder to open and close over time and the most common problem is that the rollers they slide on simply wear out. The door used as an example in this hub finally got so hard to move that children could barely open it and the handle broke off from excessive force. It was (past) time to do something!

The most obvious first effort should be to clean the track out - remove any debris, small rocks or gravel, etc. Vacuum the track thoroughly and see if there is any improvement - this is sometimes all it takes and is quick and easy to do.

If cleaning the track doesn't work, try to adjust the rollers. This is part of any repair work and is explained below with pictures showing where the adjustment screw can be found. While adjusting the rollers sometimes helps, it is usually an indication that they are wearing and will need replacement in the future. Rollers on the example door were adjusted some time back, and it worked for a couple of years, but eventually just plain needed replacement. If replacement is necessary, begin by removing the door from the track.

First step was to clean this track and see if it helped.
See all 7 photos
First step was to clean this track and see if it helped.
The screw seen here is to remove the roller assembly.  The adjustment screw is behind the hole under the removal screw.  The roller rides on the raised section of track near the center of the door.
The screw seen here is to remove the roller assembly. The adjustment screw is behind the hole under the removal screw. The roller rides on the raised section of track near the center of the door.
The door is removed and the section of track the roller rides on is plainly visible.
The door is removed and the section of track the roller rides on is plainly visible.

Removing the Door From the Track.

While it may be necessary to remove the outer door first, this is not usually required. In nearly all cases the upper track of the door is deeper than the lower track and the door is not so tall that it actually reaches the top.

This is so that the door can be picked up enough so that the roller assembly can clear the bottom track. Removal is generally quite simple; raise the door further into the top track and pull the bottom towards the inside. If the inside room is a hardwood floor or even vinyl tile flooring it is recommended that some kind of cover be provided to sit the door on so as not to scratch or dent the flooring. Continue this process until the top of the door comes free from the upper track and removal is complete. If you have trouble doing this it may help to adjust the rollers completely up into the door; see the final paragraph for instructions on adjusting the rollers.

Sliding glass doors can be quite heavy and it may help to use a pry bar to lift it. In addition it may require help to carry the door or even to slide it on the floor. When the door is removed, it is best to lay on a carpeted floor on its edge as shown in the photos ; the work to be done will be easier.

The example door had a major problem in removal; over the 30 year life span of the door both the floor and ceiling had warped very slightly. It wasn't enough to prevent operation of the door, but the upper track had a very slight bow downwards and the bottom track had a similar bow upwards. The result was that the door could not be lifted enough to clear the bottom track even with a prybar.

The answer was to grab a small grinder from the tool kit and very carefully remove a small amount of metal from the bottom track. The very upper portion of the track on the inside was removed down to floor level; when the door is installed it still fits below this level and is thus still supported but would now clear the lower track when raised into the upper track. If you have trouble getting the door high enough to slide the bottom out you might check for this problem.

Roller assembly.  The top screw is to remove the assembly, while the lower on is the adjustment screw and is reached through a hole in the door frame.
Roller assembly. The top screw is to remove the assembly, while the lower on is the adjustment screw and is reached through a hole in the door frame.
Removing the top screw that holds the roller assembly in place.
Removing the top screw that holds the roller assembly in place.

Replacing the Rollers

The roller assemblies are visible in the bottom of the door, near the sides (see photos). Although typically held in place with a single screw your door will likely be slightly different and you will have to find the screw(s) that hold the assembly.

Remove any screws holding the roller assembly in place and remove that assembly. At this point there are two options; either replace the entire assembly or just the roller, with replacement of the entire assembly preferable as it is much simpler. Individual rollers are available, but will most likely require using a drill to drill out the rivet holding the current roller in place and fitting a new roller into the assembly.

Whether buying either an entire assembly or just rollers, an exact replacement is necessary; while assemblies may well be similar they are very unlikely to actually work if not identical. Take the assembly to the store or use exact measurements to find a replacement. Replacement rollers may have a screw and nut arrangement to hold them in place instead of rivets; make sure that there is sufficient room for the screw and nut if you are replacing just the roller. In the example, a local home improvement store had both; a pair of rollers was $6 while two complete assemblies was only $7. The choice was obvious and two complete roller assemblies were purchased. Amazon offers many such roller assemblies and a few examples are shown to the right. There are many more, but make absolutely sure you are purchasing the correct assembly for your door.

Fit the new assembly (or the old one with new rollers) into the door frame in the same manner they came out and put the fastening screws back into the frame. It is wise to adjust the rollers up into the door as far as possible to make installing the door easier; the next section gives those instructions.

The door is re-installed the same way it came out: insert the door into the upper track and slide the bottom of the door over the lower track. The center of the door should line up on the section of track the roller rides on, but it can be moved later if you find during the roller adjustment phase that it isn't centered properly.

The edge of the inner track has been ground down to allow removal of the door.
The edge of the inner track has been ground down to allow removal of the door.
Old and new roller assemblies.  They are virtually identical, as is necessary.
Old and new roller assemblies. They are virtually identical, as is necessary.

Adjusting the Rollers

The final step in the process is to adjust the door rollers. Using a screwdiver (probably a phillips type), turn the adjustment screw until the door itself is raised just slightly off the bottom track. As the adjustment screw is turned it pushes the actual roller wheel down which is what pushes the door up.

This screw will probably be turned in a clockwise motion to move the roller down and the door up, but it may be necessary to turn it the other way depending on the assembly that fits your door. Expect the screw to turn quite easily for a few turns but then get considerably harder to turn as the roller comes into contact with the track and begins to raise the door. It may help to raise the door very slightly with a screwdriver or prybar as that will make it easier to turn the adjustment screw. Just don't raise it so far that the roller comes off the track and allows the bottom of the door to move sideways.

Adjusting this screw is done to accomplish two things; to raise the door so that it does not drag on the bottom and to plumb the door. After the door is raised and sliding freely, shut the door and adjust one roller again until the door is square with the door frame. The edge of the door should just touch the door frame all the way up and down the closed side.

Re-install the exterior door if you have moved it and the task is complete. You have successfully completed your task of sliding glass door repair and installed new patio door rollers. Your door is ready for many more years of service and it didn't cost an arm and a leg to do it.

More Home Improvement from Wilderness

Comments

rick combe profile image

rick combe Level 2 Commenter 8 months ago

Good, thorough how-to. This is actually simpler than I thought it would be.

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

Thank you. Yes, it is not difficult. Were it not for the bowed floor and ceiling, and discounting shopping time to find the new rollers, the time to repair was probably around 30 minutes or less.

Now the problem, though is that the kids slam the door hard - they are used to it taking all their strength to close it!

leahlefler profile image

leahlefler Level 7 Commenter 8 months ago

I'm glad I saw this one on my home page - our sliding glass door is getting stiffer and stiffer, and only the "grown-ups" can open it - with a LOT of force. We were starting to look at getting a new door, but this would be a LOT cheaper! Thanks for the article (and I'm bookmarking this one to show my husband later)!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

It's a great option to buying and installing a whole new patio door. The door replaced here was so hard to open that the handle had broken off from simply opening and closing the door, but it now slides as good as new.

dallas93444 profile image

dallas93444 Level 6 Commenter 8 months ago

I am glad you did not opt to get a bigger crow bar (pry bar) to attempt to lift out the patio door! Enjoyed the article. flag up!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

No, they are not so heavy that a smaller, 8-15" crow bar would be insufficient and even a large screwdriver is enough to shift it enough to clear the track. As you say, using a large one would have simply cracked the glass as the door here could NOT go up enough to clear.

Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the comment.

mctaby 8 months ago

I have a double sliding door 96"x36", which I think it requires to remove the two fix panels at the ends first because they are on the outside, and the gap of the floor inside the house in too high.

I went to home depot, and one of the employee said he doesn't need to remove the door in most cases to install new rollers. He first pulled the roller in with the adjuster screw, the remove the two screws at the top and bottom side of the door. Then, with a rubber hammer, he hits the side frame of the door to remove it and replace the roller from the side without taking out the door.

I have not found any post given this tip, and not sure if I can do that in my 96" door. God helps

6 me this week end. Any tip of knowledge is greater appreciate

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

I'm afraid that I can't be of much help here. I would be really afraid to try to take the door frame apart (which it sounds like you are being advised to do) without being able to get it out of the frame. It seems like the weather tight seam would likely be compromised all too easily.

It also sounds like you likely have the same kind of problem I had. I just can't see a manufacturer making a door that must have the entire frame removed from the surrounding wall to repair or replace the rollers, broken glass, etc.

I tried to remove the door by going outside as the outside lip was shorter, but found the exact same problem as the outside door was just a little taller and that door would not come out any more than the inner one would come to the inside.

How much too tall is the inner lip? Can you remove a small part of it through grinding, filing, etc?

leahlefler profile image

leahlefler Level 7 Commenter 8 months ago

Wilderness, I just had to write and say THANK YOU for writing this hub. We just finished our "project" and it was pretty easy. It took a while to find the right rollers at the hardware store, but we finally did find them - and the door is sliding freely now. This saved us a lot of money!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

You are more than welcome, and I appreciate your letting me know of your experience.

Like you, it probably took me longer to drive to town and find the rollers than it did to install them but that's all right. As you say, it's far cheaper than putting a new door in and a lot less work as well.

Glad it went so well for you.

mctaby 8 months ago

I agree with you. I do not know how this guy from home depot performs service to customer like that. When he said taht it sounds easy, but when I take a look at my door, it doest.

I plan to take the fix panel first. It has two stoppers top and bottom to remove. Then, I will use a flat crowbar to raise the door, and pull it out from the bottom. The rollers seems to be bost because the adjusted screw don't do anything. A sliding door 12" wide like this should be installed the frame first and then the panels. So with a little patience and care, I should be able to remove all panels. I will let you know how it goes after the weekend.

mctaby 8 months ago

I meant 12 feet...!

wilderness profile image

wilderness Hub Author 8 months ago

That sounds like the thing to do all right. One thing you might look for; if the rollers have broken off they can prevent the door from sliding out. I've had to pick up the door with a crowbar and then carefully reach through the gap at the bottom and lift the roller with a putty knife. There was just enough clearance with the door up to do that and it was really the only way to get the door out. The broken roller would always catch on the track because the adjustment screw couldn't lift it.

Please do let me know how it goes - I would be interested in the final result.

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